After acquiring a chain of salons in the Midwest
that had been founded by hairstylist Mario Tricoci,
Elizabeth Arden Spas reformulated Tricoci’s hair
care line with natural ingredients and then wanted
to rebrand it for a national launch.
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
The initial name for the hair care line, Portrait, was
established when Elizabeth Arden asked Alexander
Isley (www.alexanderisley.com)—a design consultancy
based in Cincinnati—to work on packaging
for the line. The first thing Isley did was suggest
a name change. It was a bold move for sure, but
one motivated by a strong conviction. Isley was
convinced the name wouldn’t appeal to the 30- to
45-year-olds Arden had in mind as target customers.
Since the line is meant to be combined by consumers
to match their hair types, the new name became
obvious: Match.
“We really felt that the name Portrait was
not going to speak to young women in their 30s,”
says Aline Hilford, managing partner. “Portrait
was more conservative, older, historic and dusty.
That was the first time we had that happen, where
we actually were brought in when the name was
already developed.
Alexander Isley, creative director, quickly adds
that a brand’s name is important, but ultimately
it’s what you do with it that counts. He says, “It’s
more than just a name. At a certain point, it’s what you do with it in terms of the packaging, marketing
and public persona. When people think of Nike,
they maybe think of the swoosh. They think of the
shoes; they think of Phil Knight. They really don’t
think of the Greek goddess. Magical things happen
when you put $220 million a year behind marketing
something.”


MODERN CHARACTERS
Even though Elizabeth Arden wouldn’t be putting
that kind of money behind its new hair care line, the
company agreed that Match was a better fit. With
the new name in place, Isley then got down to business.
First, the firm experimented with a font or logo
treatment for the brand. After trying several different
font iterations, Isley settled on Venus. Ironically
enough, it’s a typeface from the early 1900s.
“The letters have character to them, and we felt
that got back to what we were trying to do with the
overall packaging, where it’s very clean and simple,
but graphic,” Isley says. “When you look closely, you
see this interesting pattern, and the letters have a
little bit of quirkiness to them. I guess it is ironic that
[we used] a very old typeface, but we wanted something
simple. And we wanted people to see it and not
think twice about it.”

UNIQUE COMPLEXION
After the logo treatment was chosen, Hilford
says the packaging design came down to a choice
between two approaches. “One approach was having
the difference be the color or having four different
colors to work from based on one [overall] pattern,”
Hilford says. “The other option was one color with
a few different patterns, and in the end, that’s what
we ended up going with.”
Isley says the design team considered Pantone
colors initially, but ultimately decided on a customized
pearlescent blue. “Sometimes the Pantone colors
are limiting, and there was an effect we were looking
for. We wanted to specify something that would be a
signature color,” Isley says.
Although the Match line is not organic, the
ingredients are based on natural elements of waterbased
products. That led designers to look for inspiration
in natural elements such as botanical imagery,
herbs, grasses and even tea leaves.
Yet it was important not to use a pattern that
was instantly recognizable, so as not to mislead consumers
into believing the product was organic. “We
didn’t want people to look at [the package] and say, ‘Well, that’s a beet,’” Isley says. “‘Where’s the beet
inside this product?’ But instead we wanted to seem
more natural and free-form.”
Isley also created most of the remaining merchandising
materials and collateral for the line, all
of which mimic the products’ patterns, colors and
finishes. “I think everything took its lead from the
packaging. The only real decision that we had to
make beyond that was how to incorporate photos
of models in with the program. Typography and the
color do a lot to hold [the brand] together.”
OBVIOUS PARTNERS
Last spring, a second product was added to the line
for color-treated hair: It’s called (surprise) Mix. The
packaging is virtually identical to Match, except for
the color, which is red. “It made more sense seeing
the line on the shelf together … we felt [it] was a
stronger tie-in to have Mix use the same patterns
and just change the color,” says Hilford.
Isley adds that the trick with almost any creative
project is deciding when to quit. “I think the hardest
thing to do is to know when something is finished.
I think designers, in particular, get in trouble when
they have a hard time separating the creative activity
and the editing. I think it’s important to experiment,
but there’s a time when you need to put [ideas] out
front and be the editor and weed out things that are
good, but not perfect.”
It appears Isley’s work for Arden was at least
near-perfect. Isley says Match has exceeded Arden’s
expectations by quickly becoming its best-selling
product line.





